I've Finally Arrived!
Sleep.
That's the main thing I've been doing
since landing here in Copey, Costa Rica. Sleeping.
It's hard not too. The remodel of my
house was fraught with stress, problems and was turning into an
endless money pit. I finally broke, tossed a few things in my
suitcases and blubberingly hauled ass across the country to my
mother's house. Things didn't go any better once I got down to South
Louisiana. I discovered the day that the car was supposed to ship out
that I was missing one of the crucial documents for shipping and had
to contact Virginia DMV to get a copy sent out. The shipping company
handling my household things suddenly decided to bill me and demand
payment right then after me calling them for two weeks wanting to pay
the bill, at a bank that does not even exist in Louisiana. Add in my
mother and her myriad issues including her panic over the Tropical
Storm and you have me getting a rental car and decamping early for
New Orleans to wait out the time for my flight to Costa Rica.
In other words I've barely slept for
months on end, when I wasn't eating Xanax like M&Ms that is. I
have hit the wall and crashed. Every afternoon here in Costa Rica
during the rainy season you can count on it raining and raining
copiously. The rhythm of the downpour on the tin roofs puts me right
to sleep.
Jim picked me up at the airport
yesterday. I came trotting out in all my glorious white privilege
with a train of redcaps hauling my numerous suitcases. That's the
funny part of all of this, since leaving my mother's house I've been
operating in a very bourgeoisie way. It has nothing in common with
our usual simple life. I stayed at a 500 buck a night hotel for next
to nothing because I had saved a boatload of travel points with that
chain. It's the high end hotel of the chain that uses 'Game of
Thrones' actor who plays Tormund Giantsbane as their advertising
mascot. I got to see his smiling face all over the place. First time
I've stayed at such a luxurious place! But I did the most middle
class thing and swiped all their nice toiletries. Lots of room
service food too! I rented a bag cart at the airport and even sprung
for uber overpriced food on my Spirit airlines flight. Tiniest
glimmer of what being rich must be like. I even got to bypass the
long lines for immigration and customs courtesy of the redcaps.
The not so fun part of the trip
included having to leave the rental car in outer Cajunlandia at the
New Orleans airport and schlep all those bags through criminally high
humidity levels and heat before getting anywhere near the terminal.
Did I mention that Tropical Storm Cindy was bringing driving rain at
the same time? Sodden luggage and I made it into the terminal just in
time to check in for my 5 am flight.
It was a two hour ride in a tiny car
from the airport to Copey. Beautiful countryside, hair pin turns up
and down the mountains and the most spectacular views down sheer drop
offs into the valley. We passed a waterfall visible from the open
road and groves of coffee and apple trees.
The place Jim is staying at, that's
about to be my temporary home for three weeks, is a far cry from
anyplace I ever imagined I would live. Our 'apartment' is a half of a
converted former garage, cobbled together from tin roofing, plastic
paneling and tile. It's about 180% from the place I stayed the night
before. Yes, there's a Shower of Death, but it seems to be properly
grounded, but like all those types of showers you get a minuscule
amount of lukewarm water in between rushing gluts of cold water. I am
learning to step out for the bouts of cold and wait for the
electrified shower to do its thing and make with the lukewarm water.
I guess you can live with anything for
a few weeks. I'm so thrilled to have a bed, sheets, pillows again
that I'm not even concerned about the third world nature of the
accommodations. It is scrupulously clean.
The tiny village is charming, chickens,
cows and horses wander about at will and there is virtually no
traffic. The mountains surrounding the village have clouds dipping
down obscuring the tops. We went for a long walk in the village in
the morning. Jim took me to the small store to get drinks this
morning, juice and his favorite drink – local chocolate milk. After
lunch and another in a series of naps I started taking immediately
upon arrival we took the bus into the next town, slightly bigger than
Copey.
We hadn't been in town more than a few
minutes before we spotted that sight you can count on seeing, no
matter how tiny the village, worldwide – Mormon missionaries. We
talked to them for a few moments, but they immediately tried to
convert us, but they quickly figured out that it was the impossible
task.
I have been trying new odd things this
afternoon. First freshly squeezed raw sugar cane juice, a local
delicacy. Was very curious about this because growing up in South
Louisiana you get to see the fields of sugar cane growing, the
blessing of the sugar cane by the local Catholic priests and you get
to dodge the cane trucks hauling the harvested sugar cane to be
processed. It's not very clean or appetizing when they first extract
the juice, it's gritty and brown. The juice undergoes processing,
boiling and skimming to remove the impurities (squashed bugs and
dirt) before being reduced down into sugar.
Sure enough, fresh sugar cane juice has
gritty dirt a-plenty. Didn't much like it no matter how 'natural' it
is, or what the locals claim about it's health boosting abilities.
Yep, I drank dirt.
We had ice cream, and I got to
encounter one of the things I loved about living in Germany years ago
– booze ice cream. I had a double cone of rum ice cream studded
with dried fruits heavily soaked in rum. Kill your sweet tooth and
get a buzz on at the same time.
Followed by a taxi ride back into Copey
and more napping.
Tonight we walked down to the town's
only restaurant and had pork, potatoes and steamed vegetables with a
tamarind mousse pie. Deliciouso!
More sleep about to happen. I have
three months of crappy sleep to catch up on. Pretty easy to sleep
with the pounding of the rain on the tin roof and the fact that we're
close enough to the equator to get about 12 hours of night.
Tomorrow – mass at the local Catholic
church by the local priest – a Tanzanian with limited Spanish
skills and likely a lot more napping.
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