It's Not Butter
A few weeks ago I ran across a magazine article about the Surf Ranch, and a few days later watched one of the surf competitions taking place there. I'd been curious about it because I just cannot imagine that surfing a uniform artifical wave could possibly compete with surfing the wild blue ocean.
I'm glad I took the time to watch because it made me think about what it is with man manipulated artificial thingsI don't like.
It's the uniformity, the presicion. In life it is a rare thing to have the same thing again, and again, and again. The nature of life, and it's deepest beauty is in the endless variations. Conformity has never interested me. I think that's why I took to surf culture many years before with my father. You never knew what you are going to get in the ocean.
I like the mystery of not knowing, of finding out in that moment when you stand on the board, and the challenges of the split second reactions. It's as close to something deeply primal you can experience in our modern times.
I no longer surf. I haven't since my kids were teens. Everything hurts too much, I'm too fat and have way too many issues with balance to think I could ever climb up on a board again. I like to watch the surfing, which I get to do quite often in Tamarindo and on surrounding beaches. I still boogie board and body surf on those days when I'm not too physically beat up and the beach os mostly deserted.
But I have to admit, if I did still surf I might have to give the artifical wave a try.
I'm glad I took the time to watch because it made me think about what it is with man manipulated artificial thingsI don't like.
It's the uniformity, the presicion. In life it is a rare thing to have the same thing again, and again, and again. The nature of life, and it's deepest beauty is in the endless variations. Conformity has never interested me. I think that's why I took to surf culture many years before with my father. You never knew what you are going to get in the ocean.
I like the mystery of not knowing, of finding out in that moment when you stand on the board, and the challenges of the split second reactions. It's as close to something deeply primal you can experience in our modern times.
I no longer surf. I haven't since my kids were teens. Everything hurts too much, I'm too fat and have way too many issues with balance to think I could ever climb up on a board again. I like to watch the surfing, which I get to do quite often in Tamarindo and on surrounding beaches. I still boogie board and body surf on those days when I'm not too physically beat up and the beach os mostly deserted.
But I have to admit, if I did still surf I might have to give the artifical wave a try.
Comments